The charm of Câmara de Lobos: between the bay, the 'poncha' and the sea

Câmara de Lobos is one of those surprising places that overwhelm the senses! There's life happening all day long - and even after the sun sets. Once people have left the bars and restaurants, the sound of the sea remains in the background, lulling the nights to sleep. I stayed in this village throughout my entire stay on the island of Madeira, and I truly believe that I could not have chosen a better place. I felt that I was able to be truly present in Câmara de Lobos, see much of what still defines Madeiran culture, and bump into fishermen who were born here and have lived here their whole lives. What great conversations I had with such genuine people.

I've been to Madeira four times, but I've long wanted to return with time and ease, to explore the island in a different way. Câmara de Lobos, this small fishing village, nestled between cliffs and with its bay of calm waters, was the perfect place to feel and experience the island in this way!

When you start choosing what to do in Madeira and organising your holiday, Câmara de Lobos may not be the first choice of accommodation for those who want to explore the whole island, because the tours and hikes don't start here. However, you are close to everything, there are excellent access routes to everywhere, and it is one of the parishes that maintains its authentic traditions! I'm sure you won't regret spending a few days here.

From the moment you arrive, the landscape is nothing short of cinematic. The village is nestled in the middle of the cove, with huge houses climbing up the slopes and banana trees cultivated on terraces, so characteristic of Madeira, which paint the entire hills green, like a kind of embrace from nature to the village. And then there's the light...

a light that further enhances the bright colours of the boats in the bay, reflecting the different personalities of each owner.

Câmara de Lobos is a fishing village in the truest sense of the word, and there's plenty to visit! The sea still dictates the rhythm of the days here. Early in the morning, the fishermen set off in their colourful boats, the famous 'xavelhas'. They return at the end of the morning, after leaving the day's catch at the Funchal fish market. When all their work is done, the fishermen sit at the tables and terraces of the bars surrounding the bay, playing cards. The tradition lives on, and there is something profoundly beautiful about being able to watch this cycle - seeing the faces of the fishermen marked by the sun and salt, which tell stories without needing words.

The Câmara de Lobos bay is perhaps the heart of the village - a postcard that is still very much alive today. It's one of those places where you feel like stopping, sitting on a wall, watching, seeing life happen and just imagining what that place would have been like a few years ago. Would it be very different from what it is like now? I don't think so. And I believe it will remain that way from now on.

During our stay, I was at a small hotel just above the bay. Waking up there each day was marvellous! Opening the curtain while the sun is still shy and seeing the sea with all the boats rocking to the rhythm of the waves, as if dancing... The silence before life begins.

The balcony was my favourite place. Delicious breakfasts with this view, with a book and the sounds of a town waking up. But the moments when I was able to enjoy my time at the hotel were mostly spent at the pool... a pool with an endless view of the sea. It was there that the days were spent calmly, between dives and good snacks. Everything about this place seems to make you slow down and enjoy every moment.

There's something you really can't miss when you visit Câmara de Lobos: the bars! It's said that this is where 'poncha' was invented - and this is where you can drink the best ones. 'Poncha' is Madeira's most famous traditional drink, made with sugarcane spirit. There are various types of 'poncha', made with different ingredients, including orange, lemon, passion fruit, tangerine... the important thing is to try them all and understand the differences between them! But it's not just the 'poncha' that plays a starring role here: I also tried the famous 'Nikita'. It sounds strange, I know, but it's a drink made from wine and beer with pineapple ice cream. Just imagine! But I highly recommend it, because it's delicious - local inventions that warm the soul. Perhaps that's why the energy in these bars is so infectious. Because of this, and because of the mix of locals and tourists. It's one of those places you visit out of curiosity and end up staying... because it's so nice.

Câmara de Lobos is not just a beautiful place - it's a real place. And perhaps that's why it touches us so deeply. Time slows down here, the senses awaken, and we reconnect with what is essential. If you're planning a trip to Madeira, save a few days to spend here. To sit by the bay, listen to the stories of the sea, toast the sunset and see that there are places where your heart stays and where you always want to return.